Skincare ingredient spotlight: Which to avoid vs which to think about
Ever picked up a skincare product and felt like you were reading a science textbook? You’re not alone. The world of skincare ingredients is complex, with some compounds raising concerns due to potential health risks. This guide breaks down which ingredients are worth avoiding and which ones might require a second look, so you can make informed choices based on the latest research.
Skincare ingredients to avoid
Some ingredients have been linked to irritation, potential hormone disruption, or other health concerns. Here’s what to be mindful of:
1. Parabens (methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, etc.)
What it is:
Parabens are synthetic preservatives used to prevent bacterial and fungal growth in skincare and cosmetics. They are often found under other names starting with methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, isopropyl-, butyl- and isobutyl found in many skincare and makeup products.
Why is it controversial?
Parabens have been found to mimic oestrogen in the body, which has led to concerns about their potential role in hormonal disruption.
Who should be cautious?
Individuals with sensitive skin, hormone-related conditions, those who are pregnant or those who prefer a more cautious approach to endocrine disruptors may want to opt for paraben-free formulas.
2. SLS & SLES (sodium lauryl sulfate & sodium laureth sulfate)
What it is:
These surfactants create the foamy lather in cleansers, shampoos, and toothpaste.
Why is it controversial?
SLS is a known skin irritant that can strip natural oils, leading to dryness, irritation, and potential barrier damage. SLES is a milder version but can still cause sensitivity, particularly in those with already compromised skin.
Who should be cautious?
Individuals with eczema, rosacea, or sensitive skin may benefit from choosing sulfate-free alternatives.
3. Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, quaternium-15, etc.)
What it is:
These preservatives gradually release formaldehyde, a potential carcinogen, to extend product shelf life. In Australia, the maximum safe limit for free formaldehyde in cosmetics is 0.2 per cent. However, there are still ingredients that may release formaldehyde into a product. They are typically found in cosmetics like shampoos, hair conditioners and bubble bath products.
Why is it controversial?
Formaldehyde exposure has been linked to skin irritation, allergic reactions, and respiratory issues. Long-term exposure may increase the risk of certain health conditions, though more research is needed.
Who should be cautious?
Those with sensitive skin, allergies, or respiratory conditions should be especially mindful of formaldehyde-releasing ingredients.
4. Phthalates (diethyl phthalate, dibutyl phthalate, etc.)
What it is:
Phthalates are plasticizers used to enhance product flexibility and fragrance longevity.
Why is it controversial?
Phthalates have been classified as endocrine disruptors, with some research linking them to reproductive health concerns. However, regulatory bodies have set exposure limits deemed safe.
Who should be cautious?
Individuals who are pregnant, managing hormone-related conditions, or seeking to limit exposure to potential disruptors may prefer to avoid phthalates.
5. Artificial fragrance (Parfum, synthetic fragrance compounds)
What it is:
A mixture of synthetic chemicals designed to give products a pleasant scent.
Why is it controversial?
Artificial fragrances are among the top causes of skin irritation and allergic reactions. Some fragrance compounds may contain phthalates or other undisclosed ingredients. They may also interfere with hormone signaling and transport, leading to adverse effects in the body.
Who should be cautious?
Those with sensitive skin, allergies, or fragrance-triggered migraines may benefit from fragrance-free formulas.
Skincare ingredients to think about
Some ingredients aren’t necessarily harmful but may not suit everyone. Here’s what to consider:
1. Essential oils
What it is:
Plant-derived oils like lavender, tea tree, and citrus oils, often added for fragrance or antimicrobial properties.
Why it may be an issue for some:
While natural, essential oils can be highly irritating, especially for sensitive skin. Citrus oils, in particular, can increase photosensitivity, leading to a higher risk of sun damage.
Who should be cautious?
Those with sensitive or acne-prone skin or those using strong actives like retinol may want to limit essential oil exposure.
2. Alcohols (denatured alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, SD alcohol 40)
What it is:
Alcohols are often included in skincare to help products absorb quickly and feel lightweight.
Why it may be an issue for some:
While not all alcohols are problematic (fatty alcohols like cetyl alcohol can be moisturising), denatured alcohol and isopropyl alcohol can be drying and irritating when used over a long period of time.
Who should be cautious?
Those with dry, sensitive, or compromised skin may benefit from avoiding these drying alcohols.
3. Silicones (dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, etc.)
What it is:
Silicones create a smooth, silky feel in skincare and makeup products.
Why it may be an issue for some:
While silicones are not inherently harmful, they are hydrophobic, meaning they aren’t easily removed with water. That means they can trap dirt and oil if not properly removed, potentially leading to clogged pores and breakouts.
Who should be cautious?
Those with acne-prone or oily skin may want to opt for lightweight, non-comedogenic formulas.
The bottom line
Navigating skincare ingredients can feel overwhelming, but understanding the basics can empower you to make informed choices. Prioritising products free from parabens, sulfates, formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, phthalates, and artificial fragrances can be beneficial, particularly for those with sensitive skin or specific health concerns. Meanwhile, ingredients like essential oils, drying alcohols, and silicones may be fine for some but not ideal for others. Ultimately, it’s about finding what works best for you and finding a skincare routine that truly supports your skin’s health.
Related reads:
- Peptides in Skincare: What are they and are there benefits?
- 3 benefits of niacinamide skincare
- How hyaluronic acid may impact your skin
Reviewed by the Healthylife health experts March 2025.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not provide medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Any information published on this website or by this brand is not intended as a substitute for medical advice. If you have any concerns or questions about your health you should consult with a health professional.
About this article
Gabbie Watt
A bachelor degree qualified Naturopath, Gabbie is passionate about integrating evidence-based practice and traditional medicine. Formerly a Radiation Therapist, her background in conventional medicine enriches her holistic health approach.